From Valdichiesa we turned our scooters north westward towards the tiny hamlet of Pollara - the setting for Massimo Troisi's film - Il Postino. The village sits inside one half of the crater of the other extinct volcano of the island. The rest of the crater has collapsed into the sea leaving a dramatic bay with high cliffs and a black rock island that was the original plug of the volcano.
We scootered down some crazy switchbacks and crazier views and stopped at the Al Cappero - a tiny restaurant recommended by Jon Carlo back in Santa Maria. They use local ingredients from the island and grow and sell their own cappers (I bought a bag). In an amazing two weeks of eating, I think this was the best. Jo's grilled spada (swordfish) was so good that it turned her from a swordfish hater to lover!
After lunch we walked down from the point to the tiny beach in the bay that I had sailed into about ten days earlier. The water was cool and delicious and we swam around for a few hours. We saw this young buff Italian man selling sodas and sandwiches but there was no stall or restaurant in sight - turns out he takes your order, calls his buddy on the mobile, his buddy makes a basket, scooters over from Pollara, and they use a pulley and cable system made out of old bicycle parts to then send the basket down to the beach.
We scootered down some crazy switchbacks and crazier views and stopped at the Al Cappero - a tiny restaurant recommended by Jon Carlo back in Santa Maria. They use local ingredients from the island and grow and sell their own cappers (I bought a bag). In an amazing two weeks of eating, I think this was the best. Jo's grilled spada (swordfish) was so good that it turned her from a swordfish hater to lover!
After lunch we walked down from the point to the tiny beach in the bay that I had sailed into about ten days earlier. The water was cool and delicious and we swam around for a few hours. We saw this young buff Italian man selling sodas and sandwiches but there was no stall or restaurant in sight - turns out he takes your order, calls his buddy on the mobile, his buddy makes a basket, scooters over from Pollara, and they use a pulley and cable system made out of old bicycle parts to then send the basket down to the beach.
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