When Tushar called from Johannesburg to ask if I wanted to see some of the World Cup, I felt I had to say yes. For most of the past year I had been talking like I was going. But that was before Evan was born. And yes, knowing that he was due on a certain date was different from holding him in my hands. And not seeing Vivian and Jo for a month seemed like a long time.
I settled on a compromise - a shortened trip where I would catch the quarters, semis and the final.
Johannesburg felt like everyone there had just had a double cappuccino. It was at once sprawling and crowded and energetic and luxurious and crime-ridden and bustling and soccer crazy. My first appointment with a live game took me to the famed Soccer City stadium on the outskirts of Soweto. On the bus trip there, a young woman who was also headed to see the game painted my friends' faces with the Ghana colors. Everyone was your best friend.
The Ghana-Uruguay game will probably be remembered as one of the greatest Wold Cup games ever. A summary for those who missed it: Ghana scored in added time at the end of the half to take the lead. Forlan scored a superb goal for Uruguay that silenced the stadium. Suarez handled the ball on the goal line in the dying moments of extra time to deny Ghana a win. Gyan missed the resulting penalty when the ball hit the top of the cross-bar and shot up into the air. Uruguay prevailed in PKs. 98% of the stadium supported Ghana. The atmosphere was electric. The vuvuzelas were deafening during normal play. At crucial moments it was mind-numbingly loud.
Soccer City Stadium before the Ghana-Uruguay game
Black Star fans everywhere
Forlan takes a corner against Ghana
Greenpoint Stadium Cape Town - night of Holland's last win
Dutch supporters at Soccer City Stadium before the final
Final: Spain-Holland kick-off
Spain wins!
I had the good fortune of being in Berlin days after the Wall had fallen. I was standing around on my last evening there with my camera in hand when a flat-bed truck picked up Checkpoint Charlie and carried it away. Being in South Africa during the World Cup felt that way - as if there was a certain smell in the air - the smell of history being made.
Complete strangers were amazingly warm and friendly - even after accounting for the euphoria surrounding the world cup and the amount of alcoholic beverages consumed. SA is truly a rainbow nation. It is amazing to see so many races and their mixtures and combinations living in harmony, especially when you consider what it was like a mere 16 years ago. My home country, India and my adopted home, America would do well to take a lesson or two from the people of South Africa.
And finally, Vivian & Evan - you may never see Nelson Mandela, the last of dying breed of statesmen, in person. But you can tell your friends that you Dad was out there in the stands along with 84,490 cheering fans when Mandela came out to take a bow for bringing the World Cup to Africa and Africa to the world.
p.s. Tushar, Vanessa - you have inspired me to be a better host. Thanks for showing me two slices of South Africa from the eyes of a local.
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